Musicians deal in human triumph and tragedy every day. They dedicate their lives to expressing and reliving everything from the unshakable faith in the human spirit of Beethoven’s ninth symphony to the barbarity of decadent power in Richard Strauss’ Salome to the despair and love of Gustav Mahler.
But playing about such things and living them are two very
different things. Members of UC’s Philharmonia Orchestra found that out the
hard way: A concert tour to Europe, to Paris and London in the springtime,
ended with sudden, senseless death.
CCM students first heard of plans for the trip in the fall of
1987. In the Philharmonia Orchestra’s first rehearsal of the year — like most
first rehearsals, the group’s introduction to itself, it was not particularly
good — music director and conductor Gerhard Samuel stopped after another train
wreck in the Brahms Symphony Nr. 3 and announced matter-of-factly, “I’d like to
take this orchestra to France next spring.”
Until this fall, the only new development was that we would be
part of a Mahler festival in Paris and that we would be in august company. By
October, 1989, though, most of the specifics were made public. Philharmonia had
been invited to participate in the International Mahler Festival at the Theatre
du Châtelet in Paris. We were to be the only conservatory involved and the only
orchestra from the United States.
And the company was indeed august: London’s Royal Philharmonic and
Symphony Orchestra, the City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra, and, sandwiching
our concert, Amsterdam’s Concertgebouw Orchestra and the Czech Philharmonic.
The roster of conductors was equally impressive, featuring Pierre Boulez,
Charles Dutoit, Vaclav Neumann and Simon Rattle.
The big mystery was what we were to play. Since mid-winter,
1987-88, the most rampant rumor was that we would play the Mahler Symphony Nr.
7. It was a nice idea since the seventh is about as obscure as Mahler
symphonies can manage to be these days despite being a wonderful piece. A
closer look, though, revealed that to be nearly impossible. Besides being
immensely difficult to play individually and as a group, Mahler’s seventh
requires a huge performing ensemble — more than would be reasonable to take to
France.
The answer: “Totenfeier,” first draft of the first movement of the
Resurrection (second) symphony and the world premieres of six early Mahler
songs orchestrated by Luciano Berio and of the Symphony in E Major of Hans
Rott. Reaction from the orchestra was unanimous. Hans who?
Rott was a colleague of Mahler’s at the conservatory in Vienna. He
died at age 26 of tuberculosis and left but one work of substance, the E Major
symphony. Mahler admired it very much, calling it “the beginning of the New
Symphony as I know it.” The score of the Rott had been discovered, not wrapping
a cheese in St. Petersburg or in the musty trunk of a distant relative, but in
the library of the Vienna Philharmonic. It was lost through lack of use.
The rehearsal has one other message: The Rott has a lot of notes.
Many of them nasty. Our work is definitely cut out for us.
In the interim, we had our standard complement of three concerts
per quarter. The most important was the CCM Gala, a cavalcade of famous CCM
alumni performing at a benefit to help defray costs of the tour, estimated at
nearly $100,000 — a twist on singing for our supper. In less than two weeks, we
put together the program, accompanying baritone Julian Patrick, pianist Anton
Nel, soprano Blythe Walker, dancer Suzanne Farell, and Broadway stars Lee Roy
Reams and Pam Myers. Jerry Herman, composer of Mame, Hello,
Dolly, and La Cage
aux Folles, performed in a retrospective of his work.
The tour’s “preview” concert was Saturday, March 4, in Corbett
Auditorium. We thought we played extremely well, and both the reviews and the
audience reaction confirmed that. “Philharmonia is ready for Europe,” as the Cincinnati Enquirer put it. By
then, we had actually come to appreciate, even to like the Rott.
It was not always the case. In the early rehearsals, there were
rumbles of, “This is just bad Mahler,” and, “Mahler did this better.” It
finally sank in, though, that Rott had done it first, and that, though the
adjective describing such music will clearly remain “Mahleresque,” Hans Rott
was a brilliant innovator cut down by fate before he could refine his craft.
His symphony has some stunning moments.
The tour, as far as we were concerned, started the next day. With
a rehearsal. On a Sunday night. That was a polishing session, designed to fix
the few things that hadn’t worked the night before. After that, the bulky
instruments, e.g. basses, ’celli, French horns, were packed for shipment to
France. Cincinnati, of course, picked this night for its single, token annual
ice storm.
Our reward for rehearsing Sunday was a free afternoon Monday. To
pack.
Tuesday, March 7 was D-Day. Just after noon, we were herded
unceremoniously aboard school buses for the trip to the airport. Not an
auspicious beginning, I told myself. Our flight was to leave at about 3:30 p.m.
That annoyed me by itself. I would have planned to arrive at the airport at
3:10 for a 3:30 flight; we would be there before 1:00. It took long enough to
get to the Greater Cincinnati International Airport, though, that we were
beginning to wonder if the whole thing had been a terrible misunderstanding and
we were instead on our way to Paris, Ky.
The line the airline made exclusively for us at the terminal was
of more relief to the handful of passengers on other flights than to us. It
still took an hour and a half to get all of us checked in. It left just enough
time for me to buy a farewell-to-Cincinnati lunch of cheese coneys.
This was coincidentally the week airline pilots were flying “by
the book,” in effect a work slowdown, in support of striking Eastern pilots. We
left Cincinnati more than half an hour late and were stacked up over JFK
airport in New York City for at least that much again. Our connection was
supposed to have departed before we even landed. Airlines may wait for no man,
but for a group of 100, they make exceptions. Our Boeing 747 waited patiently
for us.
Our flights combined took nearly 11 hours. We landed at Paris’
Charles de Gaulle airport at 8 a.m. local time (2 a.m. EST). The countryside as
we landed was a deep green of a kind Cincinnati hasn’t seen in two years. The
weather was sunny and warm, a drastic, sudden and welcome switch from the past
afternoon. Their was another benefit, too: Our stay in France was the best kind
of stay — a free stay. The French government picked up our tab on behalf of the
festival.
Those who had experienced tourist hotels already were hardly
reassured by that. Especially since governments likely tried to get the best
deal possible. Our coaches (a thousandfold better than the school buses) drove
us to Montmartre, the appropriately artistic district of Paris.
I was one of the last out of my coach; all I could see was that we
had to drag our luggage up to the hotel, which was still hidden around the
corner.
Our fears, though, were utterly misplaced. Nestled in a dead-end
side street, our hotel was like a tourism commercial, comprising spacious rooms
and suites. My roommates and I landed (purely by chance, I assure you) one of
the most luxurious and spacious suite available. All three of us got a separate
room.
Despite our eleven hours of travel, most of us decided to go out
and see some sights. I decided to find the Associated Press office, since I was
expected to file stories for both The News
Record and the Cincinnati
Enquirer.
That was one of my best moves of the tour. A colleague who spoke
some French (I learned all my French from Pink Panther movies) got some basic
directions from the hotel desk (which were wrong), and we were off to the
Metro, one of the cheapest, cleanest, most efficient subways in the world. It
turned out to be a blessing the directions were wrong. The two of us spent the
day meandering through Paris. We found AP, and we saw Paris. Not the tourist
places, but working Paris, full of Parisians leading their regular lives.
Gershwin’s American in Paris suddenly made sense, because everyday, working Paris is
unspeakably beautiful. Endlessly beautiful. It was easy to understand why the
mystique of the City of Light existed; it is largely true.
“How?” David asks in a hush.
The jet lag and sightseeing took their toll. The first rehearsal
was, most agree, simply awful. Our concentration never quite turns on. That
sometimes works for the best, though. Bad dress rehearsals often inspire good
concerts.
“Fiddles. You know those places you get away with in Corbett
(CCM’s auditorium) because it gets covered up? Well, they’re perfectly clear in
here.”
We chuckle . . . and cringe.
“Yeah,” I said, “half the orchestra feels that way.”
“Only half?”
“The rest just don’t want to leave.”
Reports from the hall say the audience is impressed.
All’s well at intermission.
We left for London at 7:30 the next morning. Many just hadn’t gone
to bed; they hadn’t yet packed, and it was less painful than getting up. And we
wanted to soak up our last moments of Paris. We really didn’t want to leave.
Imagine just not really wanting to go to London.
It took longer to get from Paris to London than to get from New
York to Paris. Our tour guide didn’t let us sleep, either, greeting us as we
crossed World War I battlefields with — and I’m not making this up — “Wakey,
wakey!” We made a pit stop half way to the Calais at what we declared the
Stuckey’s of France, the only mediocre food from our stay on the continent.
Our fears of London are confirmed. Our hotel was a dormitory with
maid service, apparently in charge of handling London’s student group tours.
And our schedule was tight, too. Only Saturday and Tuesday evenings were free.
Sunday was taken up by a rehearsal and concert, and Monday and Tuesday were
eaten by twelve hours of mentally exhausting recording sessions.
The pubs, though they served some of the finest beer in the world,
gave last call at 11 p.m., and even our salvation in France, good food, was not
easily found. England has basically no native cuisine. As one classmate put it,
“They even boil their wives.”
Foreign cuisine they do have. Apparently all the refugees from the
former peripheries of the Empire decided to open restaurants in London, most
notably from India, Singapore and Hong Kong. Americans have not yet returned to
Britannia besides McDonald’s, though Domino’s has now opened a handful of
stores (Britain was shocked at the idea of pizza’s being delivered).
Almost all of us opted to blow our remaining funds Tuesday night
on a feast at various London eateries. The group I was with chose Indian;
another group chose Chinese.
It was in the middle of dinner that Russell Kline, a first-year
master’s student, a fine French horn player and a member of the latter group,
realised he was suffering an allergic reaction. A few questions nailed down the
culprit: peanut products (either a sauce or oil) on some kebabs. Russell was
allergic to peanuts. He excused himself to go back to the hotel, where he had
medication, feeling embarrassed to spoil everyone else’s dinner. A fellow horn
player insisted on going with him.
Russell’s condition worsened on the subway, and he collapsed on
the platform of the station where he was supposed to get off. He was rushed to
the hospital.
At the hotel, we were filtering back from our dinners. We heard of
the incident, but we weren’t really concerned; he was, after all, in proper
care. I had just started liquidating my remaining U.K. currency into Bailey’s
Irish Cream, a pleasant repast before the long flight home. Many orchestra
members were already in bed.
At about 11:30 p.m., Teri Murai and orchestra librarian Mack
Richardson pulled aside Russell’s closest friends to tell them Russell was
dead. The allergy had triggered an athsmatic attack, and the combination had
overcome his heart. Those who were awake didn’t sleep — or speak or feel well —
much that night, pondering something so absurd it would be ridiculous if it
hadn’t proven deadly.
The trip to Heathrow took place in virtual silence, and not
because it was early. Even Mr. Wakey-Wakey had the sense to leave us in peace.
And so the flight home to Spring Break was even longer than we had
expected. I split from the group in New York to visit some high school friends
now living there. Most of the German citizens spent their break in Germany;
another group stayed in London.
The tour was finally put to rest, though, Thursday, March 30, with
a memorial service for Russell at CCM. Most of the orchestra attended. There,
his friends and colleagues bade him farewell as best they could.
With music.
From the warmth of the sun on our faces on the banks of the Seine
to stark death, it was truly a week and a half to remember.